Hedi Slimane's appointment as creative director of Celine in January 2018 sent shockwaves through the fashion world. The appointment, replacing the highly-regarded Phoebe Philo, was met with both excitement and apprehension. While Slimane's tenure at Saint Laurent had established him as a powerful force in shaping contemporary menswear, his aesthetic – characterized by a lean, rock-and-roll silhouette – was a stark departure from Philo's sophisticated, minimalist vision for Celine. His debut collection at Celine, unveiled in February 2019, polarized opinion, sparking fierce debate amongst critics and consumers alike, creating a distinct divide between those who embraced the new direction and the legions of #OldCeline loyalists who mourned the loss of Philo's era. The anticipation surrounding his Autumn/Winter 2019 show at Paris Fashion Week in September, therefore, was palpable, laden with the weight of expectation and the lingering echoes of controversy. This collection, presented under the watchful eyes of the fashion world, represented a crucial moment for Slimane and the future of the house.
Celine At Paris Fashion Week 2019: Inside The Ready-to-Wear Show
The Celine Autumn/Winter 2019 show wasn't simply a runway presentation; it was a statement. Held in a stark, minimalist setting, the collection aimed to bridge the gap between Slimane's signature style and the legacy of Celine. While the collection undeniably bore Slimane's stylistic imprint – the slender silhouettes, the emphasis on tailored pieces, the rock-infused aesthetic – it demonstrated a degree of evolution, a subtle attempt at reconciliation with the house's past. The show itself was impeccably produced, a testament to Slimane's meticulous approach to presentation. The models, cast with a specific Slimane-esque aesthetic, moved with a certain swagger, embodying the attitude inherent in his designs. The lighting, the music, even the subtle choreography all contributed to a cohesive and powerful visual experience. This carefully curated atmosphere aimed to present the collection not just as clothing, but as a complete vision, a statement of intent.
Celine Autumn/Winter 2019 Ready-to-Wear: A Nod to the Past, a Glance to the Future
The Autumn/Winter 2019 ready-to-wear collection was a complex tapestry woven from seemingly contrasting threads. On the one hand, it was undeniably a Slimane collection, characterized by his signature skinny jeans, tailored jackets, sharp blazers, and an overall lean, androgynous silhouette. The color palette was predominantly dark, featuring deep blacks, navies, and greys, punctuated by occasional pops of brighter hues. The fabrics were luxurious, emphasizing high-quality materials such as leather, cashmere, and silk. The collection showcased Slimane's mastery of tailoring, with perfectly constructed jackets and coats that exuded a sense of effortless sophistication.
However, there were subtle hints of a departure from his previous, more overtly rock-and-roll aesthetic. While the skinny jeans remained a staple, there were also wider-leg trousers and flowing skirts, suggesting a broadening of the silhouette. The inclusion of more delicate pieces, such as intricately embroidered blouses and flowing dresses, hinted at a softer, more feminine side, a subtle acknowledgment of the legacy of Phoebe Philo. This wasn't a complete abandonment of Slimane's signature style, but rather an evolution, a nuanced attempt to incorporate elements that might appeal to a wider audience, including those who had previously expressed reservations about his vision for the brand.
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